The Squale 1521 lives firmly in the third category. Its DNA goes back to the 1960s, when Squale supplied cases to brands like Blancpain, Doxa, and Sinn. Founder Charles von Büren built his reputation on producing robust cases for professional divers, including Italy’s elite frogmen units. The 1521 line has changed little since its debut — and that’s the point.

Where other brands reinvent their dive models every few years to stay “fresh,” the 1521 remains a constant. If your design still works after half a century, you don’t need to chase trends.

Squale 1521 — 42 mm stainless steel case (~12.5 mm thick, 48 mm lug-to-lug), 500m water resistance, Sellita SW200-1 automatic (élaboré grade), unidirectional 120-click bezel, sapphire crystal with AR coating, orange minute hand for high-contrast legibility, and a recessed crown at 4 o’clock for snag prevention. Available in multiple finishes, from polished to matte-blasted.

On paper, 42 mm sounds big, but case design is everything. The 1521’s Von Büren case hugs the wrist and keeps its profile sleek at just 12.5 mm thick. The short lug-to-lug length makes it wearable on smaller wrists without feeling undersized on larger ones.

Why it matters: Tool watches should be wearable for hours without fatigue. If it’s uncomfortable, you won’t take it where it needs to go.

You can choose between polished or matte-blasted cases, but both are designed to take knocks. The blasted finish reduces glare underwater and hides scratches, while the polished finish is easier to refinish after years of use.

Why it matters: Reflections can blind you in bright conditions — and scratches happen. A good tool watch accounts for both realities.

The 120-click unidirectional bezel is a perfect blend of precision and grip. The action is firm, the clicks are positive, and the insert is easy to read in all light conditions. Many divers prefer its minimal play and clear minute demarcations.

Why it matters: Timing dives (or anything else) should be intuitive and foolproof.

The recessed 4 o’clock crown isn’t just a design quirk — it reduces the chance of snagging on gear and makes the watch more comfortable at extreme wrist angles.

Why it matters: Crown position is one of the most overlooked aspects of dive watch comfort and safety.

Underwater, color perception changes rapidly with depth. Orange remains visible longer than most hues, making the minute hand — the critical timekeeper for divers — stand out clearly.

Why it matters: Quick, accurate reads in low visibility conditions can be lifesaving.

Inside, the SW200-1 keeps things simple and reliable. It’s robust, accurate, and easily serviced by any competent watchmaker — with parts availability guaranteed for years.

Why it matters: Tool watches are meant to last decades, not seasons. That only works if the movement is serviceable anywhere.

An instructor in Sicily has worn his 1521 daily for eight years, both in and out of the water. It’s been bashed against ladders, rinsed in saltwater, and survived countless cycles of sun and humidity. He swears by its legibility underwater and its comfort during long dive days.

A reader from Australia uses his 1521 for open-water swims and reef dives. He values the bezel’s grip and the orange minute hand for quick checks. “It’s the watch I take when I don’t want to baby anything,” he said. “And it always comes back home ticking.”

A European collector I know keeps a tight rotation of tool watches. The 1521 is the one he uses for trips to the coast or poolside vacations. It’s been dropped on tile, taken into chlorinated water, and still runs within COSC specs. His verdict: “It’s not a luxury watch pretending to be a diver. It’s a diver that happens to be built like a luxury watch.”

The Squale 1521 is one of those rare watches that bridges the gap between professional-grade capability and everyday wearability without losing credibility in either world. In the dive community, it has the quiet respect that comes from decades of real use. It’s been on the wrists of instructors teaching in cold, murky conditions, on divers working in commercial settings, and on hobbyists who simply want a reliable tool in their kit.

It’s also a watch that resists the temptation to be more than it needs to be. No reinvented logos every other year, no limited editions made just to move units. When Squale changes something, it’s because it’s necessary, not because a marketing calendar demands it. That’s a philosophy you don’t see often in an industry addicted to “newness.”

The 1521 is comfortable enough to wear all day, tough enough to shrug off knocks and saltwater, and simple enough to service anywhere. If you buy one today and take care of it, there’s no reason it won’t be on your wrist — or your kid’s wrist — decades from now.

Owning a Squale 1521 is less about joining a club and more about owning a piece of proven, functional design. It’s a watch that doesn’t need to announce itself, because the people who know… already know. And that’s the kind of credibility no ad campaign can buy.

Get your brand in front of over 10,000+ men who care about how they spend their time, not just how they track it. Own The Watch is where collectors, builders, and sharp thinkers come to reset—not just consume.

📩 Reply to this email and let’s talk.