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The Rolex Submariner 16610
Grail Watch Guide
When it comes to iconic watches, few are as universally recognized as the Rolex Submariner. It’s the quintessential dive watch and a cornerstone of Rolex’s sports lineup. Yet, for all its acclaim, the Submariner has become almost too legendary—its reputation so outsized that skeptics like me can’t help but wonder if it’s all hype.

I’m no stranger to fine watches, and the idea of the Submariner always felt too… obvious. It was a watch for the masses, endlessly replicated and flaunted, and I doubted it could live up to its mythos. But everything changed when Seth at The Laughter Collection offered me the chance to try out the Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610.
For three weeks, I wore this timepiece during 12-hour military training shifts, putting it through paces Rolex likely never intended. What I discovered in those long days and nights was a watch that not only lives up to the hype but surpasses it.

The 16610: A Submariner Sweet Spot
The Submariner Ref. 16610 is often described as a transitional reference. Introduced in 1987 and produced until 2010, it bridges the gap between vintage aesthetics and modern functionality. Unlike the larger, ceramic-bezel models of today, the 16610 retains the aluminum bezel insert that lends vintage Submariners their charm. It’s also a bit slimmer, with a 12mm profile that hugs the wrist in a way modern watches rarely do.

At 40mm, the case is the perfect size—substantial but never overwhelming. For me, this was a critical factor. I’ve worn my fair share of larger watches, including my trusty Rolex Explorer II (42mm), and while I appreciate the Explorer’s functionality, its size can occasionally remind you it’s there. The 16610, on the other hand, disappears on the wrist in the best way possible. It’s a watch you don’t notice because it’s so comfortable, and that’s a rare quality in any timepiece.

Aesthetics That Stand the Test of Time

The Submariner 16610’s design is Rolex at its best—timeless, legible, and utterly versatile. The black dial, with its white hour markers and luminous Mercedes hands, is clean and understated. The black aluminum bezel adds a touch of utilitarian charm, and while it lacks the scratch resistance of modern ceramic bezels, it makes up for it with character.
One of the joys of wearing a 16610 is seeing how it evolves. Earlier models with tritium dials develop a warm patina over time, giving the watch a vintage glow. Later versions with Luminova or Super-LumiNova dials retain a crisp, modern look. Mine falls into the latter category, with bright, reliable lume that proved invaluable during long nights in training exercises.

The Cyclops lens over the date window is a divisive feature, but for me, it’s one of those quirks that screams "Rolex." It’s functional, adding legibility in low-light conditions, and iconic in a way few watch details are.
A Workhorse Movement
Inside the 16610 beats the Rolex Caliber 3135, a movement that has become something of a legend in its own right. Introduced in 1988, the 3135 powered the Submariner for over two decades and earned a reputation for reliability and precision.

The movement is COSC-certified, offering an accuracy of -4 to +6 seconds per day. With a 48-hour power reserve and a quick-set date function, it’s as practical as it is robust. What stood out to me most during my three-week trial was the consistency of the 3135. Even after constant wear during physically demanding tasks, the watch didn’t miss a beat.

For collectors, the 3135 is also a movement that’s easy to service, with parts readily available and a design built to withstand the test of time. It’s a no-nonsense workhorse, much like the watch it powers.
Durability: The Submariner’s True Strength
Rolex didn’t become synonymous with luxury sports watches by accident, and the 16610 is proof of that. Built from 904L stainless steel, the case and bracelet are virtually indestructible. The Triplock crown ensures water resistance to 300 meters (1,000 feet), though my testing was limited to more terrestrial challenges.

During military training, I was constantly on the move—climbing, crawling, and putting gear through its paces. The Submariner took it all in stride. Its sapphire crystal resisted scratches, the bezel stayed aligned, and the bracelet never once felt loose or insecure.

While the Submariner is marketed as a dive watch, its real-world durability is what sets it apart. This is a watch that thrives in any environment, from the bottom of the ocean to the top of a mountain—or, in my case, through the rigors of training exercises.
Versatility That Can’t Be Beat
What struck me most about the Submariner 16610 was its versatility. This is a watch that looks just as good with a wetsuit as it does with a suit and tie. I’ve worn it during grueling 12-hour shifts, but I could easily see it on my wrist at a formal event or a casual outing.

Its slim profile and balanced proportions make it wearable on virtually any wrist. It’s the kind of watch you can forget you’re wearing, but when you notice it, you’re glad it’s there.
From Skeptic to Believer
As someone who didn’t buy into the Submariner hype, I wasn’t expecting to be won over. But after living with the 16610 for three weeks, I can confidently say this watch deserves its reputation.

Its perfect size, timeless design, and bulletproof construction make it a joy to wear. It’s practical enough for everyday use, tough enough for extreme conditions, and elegant enough for any occasion. For me, the 16610 proved that a watch doesn’t have to shout to make a statement.

If you’re considering your first Rolex—or looking to add a Submariner to your collection—the 16610 is an excellent choice. It’s a modern classic, a tool watch at heart, and a piece of horological history that’s built to last.
Further Reading
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610 is more than a watch; it’s an experience. From its humble beginnings as a dive tool to its status as a cultural icon, this reference represents everything that makes Rolex great. For skeptics like me, it’s a reminder that sometimes the hype is well-deserved.
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