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Lorier Neptune Series IV Review: A Vintage Diver Built to Be Worn
From gilt hands to a Hesalite crystal, the Neptune brings timeless style to a modern-wearable dive watch—without feeling like a homage.
Ian Roth
May 19, 2025 • Estimated Reading Time: 7 minutes
1 WATCH
The Lorier Neptune Series IV
A Submariner-Inspired Diver with a Soul of Its Own
QUICK SPECS
Movement: Miyota 90S5 (Automatic, 42-hour power reserve)
Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel
Crystal: Domed Hesalite
Water Resistance: 200 meters
Dimensions: 39mm case, 14.2mm thickness (including crystal), 48mm lug-to-lug
Bracelet: 20mm flat-link stainless steel bracelet with taper to 16mm
WHY IT’S INTERESTING
The Neptune isn’t trying to be flashy—it’s trying to feel right. From the coin-edge bezel to the golden handset and no-date dial, every choice feels period-correct but fresh. The Hesalite crystal gives it warmth and distortion that sapphire can’t replicate. Most impressive? It’s not an homage. It’s a reinterpretation, done with care.
VERDICT
[ ] Hard Pass
[ ] More Style than Substance
[ ] Desk Diver Special
[ ✅ ] Sleeper Hit
[ ] Mission Ready
If you’ve ever wished a vintage Sub wore like a modern tool watch, this is your answer.
2 TACTICS
Insights into staying off the grid and on time.
🔏 Analog Backup: Carry a Non-Digital Compass
When you're off the grid, your phone isn't always your friend. A compact analog compass like the Suunto Clipper or Cammenga 27 can help you navigate without batteries or signals. It's lightweight, discreet, and makes a great EDC tool for anyone who wants to unplug without getting lost.
⏳ How to Align a Dive Bezel for Everyday Use
Don’t dive? Use the bezel to time everyday tasks. Set the triangle at the minute hand to track meetings, workout sets, or your French press brew time. Unlike a chronograph, there’s no battery and nothing to reset—just twist and go.
3 GEAR PICKS
Gear up with essentials that keep you prepared-no batteries required.
🧰 Danner Bull Run Moc Toe Boots
 | American-made boots with classic lines and all-day comfort. The unlined leather molds to your feet over time and pairs perfectly with a field-ready diver like the Neptune. They age as well as your watch will. |
📓 Waxed Canvas Roll-Top Backpack by Stubble & Co
 | Built for the city or the coast, this backpack uses weatherproof materials and vintage styling with modern carry tech. It’s a practical companion that complements the Neptune’s rugged-refined personality. |
🕶️ Persol 714SM Steve McQueen Sunglasses
 | Foldable Italian acetate frames with polarized lenses and timeless cool. The same sunglasses worn by McQueen—perfect match for the Neptune’s vintage tool watch ethos. |
DEBRIEF
Plastic crystal, professional build—what's your take?
Plastic crystals are rare these days, but Lorier chose Hesalite for its warmth, vintage distortion, and repairability. It scratches—but it also polishes. It distorts—but that’s part of the magic.
Do you like pictures for the item recommendations? |
Trust only your watch,
The Desk Watcher
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